Icelandic cuisine

We started the adventure in Reykjavìk with a food walk.  That meant we were in a group of like-minded people who all wanted to eat the local fare.  We started out in front of the Harpa concert hall, which provided a good meeting spot, and we made our way to the first of five restaurants.  We walked around town, seeing the charm of the city streets and the architectural style while we ate different local specialties.  We learned that most meals in Iceland come from the ocean or from their abundant sheep population.  Lamb is excellent, here, and apparently, there are far more sheep than people in Iceland, prompting a warning from our guide, Kerìtas, that anyone in our little group who rented a car and was headed out on the road around the country ought to heed- the sheep are apparently as stupid as they are plentiful, and they are rarely constrained to a single space, so please exercise caution when driving.  Fortunately, Cas and I are letting someone else drive and be on sheep-watch while we travel Iceland.  

On our food walk, we tried a few country-specific specialties, too.  The Icelandic hot dog is very good.  It’s mostly lamb with a little beef mixed in, and it’s served with the Icelandic version of ketchup, some mustard, their house made remoulade sauce, grilled onions and raw onions.  We were told by a stranger on the Iceland Air flight and by our guide yesterday that we must try one with everything on it.  And so we did.  It was pretty spectacular.  There were a few other things of note in our food adventure.  There was an especially yummy fish stew paired with a grilled fish we both loved.  There was a pretty great ice cream with flecks of their locally made rye bread (which is sweeter than what we know in the US), and of course, there was the shark.  

Hoo, boy, that shark.  I had built it up in my mind pretty effectively.  It all started when I watched a Rick Steves special to familiarize myself with the country we were to visit.  Rick Steves gives a good overview of a place, infused with his own hunky-dory worldview.  He’s good, but kind of a square.  When I saw his reaction to Iceland’s fermented shark, I knew I was in trouble.  Rick didn’t balk at anything else in the whole country.  Then came advice about shark from friends and family who had also been here.  Avoid, avoid, avoid.  So what did Cas and I do?  We tried it.  Our guide assured us it smells worse than it tastes.  Which prompted me to smell it.  Big mistake.  It smelled like I had gone apple bobbing in a vat of Windex.  We were also instructed to chew 5-10 times, then swallow.  I got the little jar of shark-cubes presented to me first, then handed it down a long table.  I picked a small chunk.  I was willing to try, but if presented size options, you take the advantage, right?  Okay- we all held up a shark-cube on a toothpick and said Skál (cheers), then ate.  And it wasn’t terrible.  Not an experience I would want to repeat, but all in all, if it was the only source of protein on a faraway planet, I would survive.  Not a ringing endorsement, I know, bit better than I had been led to believe.  We followed it with a shot of “Black Death” which is a schnapps flavored with caraway seeds.  Not great, either, but somehow the perfect pairing for the situation.  

When we finished our food walk, we were right next to the Hallgrímskirkja Church, the very iconic Lutheran house of worship which is preceded by a statue of Leif Eriksson.  You can go in for free, sit in a pew, enjoy some music if someone is playing the enormous and beautiful pipe organ and have a peaceful moment in the beautiful space.  It’s the opposite of all the churches and cathedrals in Italy we have seen.  It’s plain and sparse, but that is its beauty and its strength.  The arches and design are center stage, leaving the person standing in the middle of it all to contemplate structure, beauty and faith.  It was not too pricey to take an elevator ride to the top of the bell tower, so we did that.  It afforded us a beautiful view of the surrounding city and the shoreline.  Really, that would have been a perfect way to cap off our first day in Reykjavík.  

Except that we managed to come on what our guide assured us was the prettiest day of the year.  She said all the locals were going to spend as much outdoor time as possible, so we joined them with a glass of wine in an outdoor space adjacent to a food court of sorts.  There was a playground with some active kids nearby and tables full of folks, sitting out and enjoying the weather.  But we were wiped out.  We had enjoyed a little nap in the afternoon, but with a five hour time difference and each of us in a body that had been on three airplanes in recent history, we were both ready for some serious sleep.  We made it back to the hotel, brushed our teeth and hit the pillows in our room that hid behind the very necessary blackout curtains.  For context, my weather app says sunrise this morning was at 2:29 am and it will set at 11:57 this evening.  Our guide yesterday assured us that it never really sets this time of year, but we were in bed sleeping (or trying to sleep) when it was prime time to see if she was right.  Aside from a strange bout of being awake at 3 am, we slept pretty well.  And it was a good thing, too.  We have an Inside the volcano adventure today.  We will be walking around inside an actual volcano, but we should be absolutely safe, as the last eruption of this particular one was 4,000 years ago.  Also, I suspect they have a pretty good way to predict eruptions in this part of the world.  

We’ve had a nice, Icelandic breakfast with skayr- the cheese based food that feels like yogurt along with the rye bread they make here- we’re told the recipe calls for geothermal cooking, and we’re totally into it.  Also, it’s a bit sweeter than what we’re used to for rye bread.  It’s quite good un-toasted with butter.  

We’ve got a little time right now to pack our day-pack with our layers we’ll certainly be needing for a trip inside a volcano.  I’ve pored over the travel guide on this one, as I have never been inside a volcano before.  I mean, what do you wear, pack or bring?  It turns out, you bring layers of clothes to wear.  When not gurgling up lava, these things can be cold.  Who knew?  So that’s the update.  We’ll get back here when we have compelted our volcanic adventure.  But for now, I can be maybe the first to tell you- go ahead and eat the shark.  It’s not great, but you have to try, don’t you?  

Here’s the photo album you’ve come to expect: https://tinyurl.com/DunlapIceland

Just like the movies

Everyone can appreciate a dramatic turn in a movie- the airport is a prime scene for these things.  The truth is, of course, that nothing good is ever going down when you have a dramatic moment in an airport.  In the movies, you see the man realize he’s letting his one true love slip away, but he catches her just in time.  In the movies, there’s lots of rapid movement.  Not a lot of that happens in real life.  Reality has far fewer lovestruck fools chasing one another about through sparsely crowded terminals, but yesterday, Cas and I did a bit of an airport jog.  It wasn’t properly movie-screen dramatic, but for us, it was a bit of a plot twist.  Our flight path had us heading from Dallas to Seattle to Portland (Oregon, not Maine), then over Santa’s house to Reykjavík.  The first leg of that journey started off a little, tiny bit later than it should have, so it threw the rest of it into question mark territory.  Hence, the airport run.  In the movies, they don’t really direct your favorite actors to respond visibly to the carry-on luggage they are carrying-on in these airport runs.  Actors seem to be empty-handed, in great shape, unimpeded by other travelers and arriving in the nick of time.  At least we hit that last mark- the nick of time.  In Portland, our gate got changed to a different terminal, and we were late to arrive, so there was a pretty significant hustle.  We got there, and the gate agent had given our seats away.  Great.  So he assigned us to what was left.  Cas got plunked into a middle seat on row 28.  There’s a piece of good news.  I somehow got seat 1A in first class.  Wow.  Also, it’s a nice bargaining chip.  Cas was in 28B convincing the guy in 28A to take the first class upgrade I was offering way up front.  It was barely a half hour on the plans, anyhow, but I like to sit with my guy.  From there, we got to Portland, and suddenly, Cas wasn’t appearing to have a ticket to Iceland.  Dumbest plot twist ever.  I swear, the seat shuffle game from Seattle must have bounced him out of the rest of his reservation.  So Cas went to the gate agent to plead his case.  Something like, Hi.  We bought tickets just like all of these other folks, and we sure do want to go on the trip we paid for, and if it’s not too much trouble, can we maybe sit near each other?  

It’s tougher than it sounds.  It took a bit of finesse from a nice Iceland Air employee at the counter in the Portland airport, and honestly, I think he fibbed and told a man I had anxiety about being separated from my husband.  I mean, I don’t like it, but it’s not cause for a meltdown.  Nevertheless, way back at row 30, we sat together and made our way to Reykjavík.  It sincerely should not have been that difficult.  From there, things got a lot less dramatic.  We made it to the airport, got our ride to the hotel and threw down a few extra bucks for a very early check in.  Like before 9am local time.  The hotel we’re at has a 3pm check in, so sitting here at 2pm, post nap and post shower is a joy we were not guaranteed.  

Here’s hoping the rest of the travel is more run-of-the-mill.  Drama is fine for the movies, but I like a boring amount of reliability.  

Cas and I are off in an hour to do our first activity- the Reykjavik food walk.  I am ready for it.  I’ve been warned about fermented shark and a beverage called Black Death.  I have a roll of chewable Pepto that I hope I won’t need.  Let’s go have some adventures!  

The floor is lava

You know the kid game- The Floor is Lava?  You climb about the house on top of the furniture, hopping from couch cushion to chair to coffee table, because... well... the floor is "lava."  

Cas and I have a sort of lazy day pattern of waking up slowly on weekends or holidays- at least whenever possible- where we delay getting out of the bed as long as we can.  When we do eventually get up and face the day, we invariably will ponder the question, "Do you think the floor is still lava?"  

Today, I pulled up the awesome countdown app I use on my phone that tells me how long it will be until important stuff, and I saw this: 

I've been pulling that up for a quick glance every morning.  But as we slowly rolled out of bed today, I said we'd be in Iceland next week, and there's a chance that the floor there may actually be lava.  

Whoa.  

So that's the big reveal.  If you haven't been close by enough to hear me excitedly pondering Icelandic things and wondering about how many pairs of hiking socks to put in a suitcase in June, the answer to "Where are we going?" is Iceland.  

I am fascinated by all of the things that appear in our travel itinerary.  The spellings are impossible looking, the accent marks on the words are a puzzle I likely won't crack and the I'm guessing that the literature we've reviewed is not really preparing me for the gorgeous landscape, the strange, near-constant summer daylight and the sheer number of waterfalls we're about to encounter.  The rain jackets we road-tested in Seattle are headed out with us, and I think they'll be pretty important.  

So that's it.  We're jamming long sleeved shirts into rolling bags this week and heading back across the ocean to celebrate the coming ten year anniversary of our first big trip together- the one where I left with a fiancée and came home with a husband.  It's still a blast to travel with Cas ten years in.  For now, we pack.  I will check in when we start the journey!  Wish us a Góða ferð (Icelandic for good trip, pronounced go-tha-ferth, according to Google)

Skál! (Cheers!)

That’s all she wrote

Back to work.  That's where we're headed Monday morning.  Cas and I have just enough time left in Spring Break to grocery shop, change the furnace filters and run some clothes through the laundry before we head back to our respective jobs Monday. We landed yesterday in the afternoon, walked to the DART Silver Line and headed to UTD station.  It was so easy.  My dad and my brother met us there and took us back home.  Such an easier post-trip pickup- we had them drive under three miles to a train station in their own neighborhood instead of about 25 to the airport.  

And let's talk about the sunshine.  What a glorious thing to see when we returned to Dallas.  It was actually in the high 80s when we arrived- a little warm for the long sleeves I was wearing, but it was so nice out that the walk to the rail station and the short wait on a bench were downright delightful.  

But that's all she wrote for now.  I hang this blog up until our triumphant Heather-And-Cas-Ride-Again moment comes in the summer.  Until then, go to all the places, see all of the things and write stuff down.  You'll be glad you did.  

tinyurl.com/DunlapSeattle

Last night in town

Grumpy Bean.  That was the name of the coffee shop where we began our morning.  Of course, it started at a coffee shop.  We went from there to a very early lunch at Beecher’s Handmade Cheese.  I learned before we left Dallas that they have a mac and cheese that you absolutely must try.  Mission accomplished.  I think I may have overdosed on Lactaid, but no worries- I got the mac.  It was pretty great.  

With our carbs all sorted out for the day, Cas and I headed to the Ballard locks.  These are a pair of locks connecting Lake Union to Puget Sound, and their primary function appears to be to let boats pass through peacefully.  The water levels in these two places are different, and the locks bring boats in to either lift or lower them to the correct level for where they are headed.  It was interesting.  I know it’s not the properly touristic thing to do, but watching a large mechanism raise or lower a whole boat is pretty interesting to me.  Also to Cas.  Heck- maybe we’re a little nerdy when doing tourist things, but we are that way together, so it’s okay.  After that, we wandered down Ballard Avenue, which was nice as we have been staying in the downtown area, and seeing another neighborhood was pretty neat.  We stepped into a wine shop and had a very strange glass of Lebanese wine before heading to a funky restaurant where Cas had a cup of salmon chowder and I had a BLT with the thickest bacon I have seen in a while.  It was a neat spot, a cool neighborhood, and as we have come to expect in Seattle, a nice bunch of people.  

After that, our city bus passes were good for a trip back to the main downtown area, where we took an underground tour.  When it was founded, Seattle was built up of wood.  There was a horrific fire, and the rebuild was strange.  There’s a large potion of that rebuild that is currently underground, and more was built on top of that.  Enough to be significant and interesting- and worthy of a unique tour.  We learned about hotels, banks, hardware stores and sawmills.  We learned about houses of ill repute and spaces that later housed bootleggers.  We got an underground-tour-look at the city where we’ve been sleeping for several nights.  It was a very cool tour.  

And now, we need to hit the hay.  It’s time to get to bed, because tomorrow morning will come very early, and we have to make our way back to Dallas.  This has certainly been a strange spring break trip- it started late and ended at a time we didn’t necessarily anticipate, but it was another good one.  Cas and Heather approved.  I’ll check back in from the house in Dallas, but after that, you’ll have to hold your breath for the next bit of adventure this summer.  If we haven’t told you where we’re going I will leave you in suspense.  You’ll see in June- hoo boy- it’s gonna be a good one.  Until then, here were are underground.  

Here, once again, are our photos: tinyurl.com/DunlapSeattle 

Coffee flavored coffee

There is coffee for sale pretty much everywhere in this city.  Coffee shops may well outnumber people in Seattle.  I am old enough to remember a time when coffee was a thing adults made at home, and nobody purchased a paper cup full while out and about, unless they were on a road trip and they stopped at a convenience store or a gas station.  Kids never touched the stuff.  The flavor options were coffee or *checks notes* also coffee.  Nothing looked like a milkshake.  Somewhere along the way, all of that changed.  I think the seed may have been planted where Cas and I were yesterday morning.  We visited the original Starbucks.  Home of the Carmel Macchiato.  Land of the ubiquitous paper cup.  Spot that has elementary aged kids demanding coffee.  I don’t know how I feel about that one, honestly.  Little kids have favorite Starbucks orders.  Seems wrong, somehow, but I can’t put my finger on it.  When I was a little kid, that was just as much a grown up beverage as beer or wine.  I wanted nothing to do with coffee, and to reinforce that, my grandfather would assure me that coffee would, “put hair on your chest.”  I didn’t 100% believe him, but the idea was still unappealing for a little girl, I assure you.  

But we’re here in Seattle, birthplace of Starbucks and reason so many kids have a favorite Frappuccino.  So we had to visit.  Perhaps it was a bit of rebellion, but we both got their signature Pike Place drip coffee.  Plain, unadorned and really, quite good.  It was utterly necessary, though.  I mean, when in Rome, right?  

Anyhow, after that, we took another stroll through Pike Place Market, our Pike Place coffees in hand.  This time, I got a decent photo of the guys throwing the fish.  It’s very silly, and I don’t know if it makes the seafood taste better, but they seem to enjoy tossing the fish about when preparing to wrap it up and complete a sale.  It was cute.  

After that, we headed to a monorail station.  Seattle has a light rail, a monorail and a decent bunch of buses, but the monorail goes from a spot right next to our hotel to the famous Space Needle.  And we had timed entry tickets.  We got to the end of the monorail line and hopped off.  We instantly saw the option to visit the Chihuly Garden and Glass exhibit.  Our Space Needle tickets were actually combo tickets, so we started our adventure with the cool glass sculptures.  We managed to walk in within a few minutes of a free guided tour, and that was very interesting.  Dale Chihuly is an interesting guy, and if you have ever seen a light fixture or a tabletop sculpture out in the world somewhere that looks like a Medusa head full of glass tubes, that’s either him or someone he inspired.  It was a really neat collection, culminating in a “glass house” and a garden.  Everywhere you look, there was interesting blown glass art.  The garden had flowers and grasses interspersed with the art, causing me to wonder about how one gets a job as a gardener there.  Must be pretty competitive.  

After the beautiful glass museum, we stepped into the Museum of Pop Culture.  There was some truly cool stuff- a fragment of a burnt-up-and-smashed Jimi Hendrix guitar, a rhinestone studded James Brown outfit- and there was a lot of stuff I flat didn’t care about.  Cas and I got rid of our cable TV when we moved in together, and I have not kept up with a single Kardashian.  I didn’t find the performance outfits of various pop stars as interesting as I was supposed to, I guess.  It was a cool museum, but a lot of pop culture has passed me by.  I’m fine with that, if you want the truth.  

But the Museum of Pop Culture, was overall pretty interesting, if for no other reason than its unique architecture.  And it closed at five.  Our tickets to the Space Needle were timed at 6:15.  (I tried for a sunset-adjacent time when booking back in Dallas), and there was absolutely nothing to do in between.  We stepped into a food court space, and all but two of the establishments were closed.  We were thinking of a glass of wine to kill time.  We weren’t hungry, and we didn’t feel much like a cup of coffee.  It was puzzling that all of these places designed to serve food were shutting down at or before dinner time.  

So we asked the nice lady at the ticket window of the Space Needle if we could head in early.  Permission granted.  We were up top well before our appointed time, but no worries, we didn’t miss out on a beautiful sunset or anything.  Mostly because the sky was too cloudy for any beautiful sunsets to occur.  We did get to gawk at the skyline and the pretty mountains in the background for a while, though.  It was pretty neat.  

From there, we were kind of running on empty.  We took the monorail back to the neighborhood where our hotel is, and Cas found a nice restaurant where they served us some very yummy dumplings and some nice Jasmine Tea.  It was exactly perfect to round out the day, and we’re all set for another bit of adventure today.  

Oh- today- yeah.  Since our trip started late, Cas called the airline and then spoke with the hotel staff.  We pushed our flight to Friday and added another night on here, so hooray!  We get another day in Seattle!  Which is just fine, because we originally packed for that many days, anyway.  Funny.  

But here we go.  Off for more adventure.  I wonder if there’s a spot around here where I can grab a cup of coffee…

Here, again, are our photos tinyurl.com/DunlapSeattle 

I see food, I eat it

The old joke, of course, is about a seafood diet.  You see food, you eat it.  If you look at this trip so far just in terms of what we’ve eaten, everything came from the water.  Hey, when you’re from someplace that is nearly 300 miles from the gulf coast, you go get seafood when you’re sitting at a table, overlooking the Puget Sound. Yesterday began with a mission to have a the crab omelet at Lowell’s.  They pride themselves in fresh crab, folded into fluffy eggs with some tomato and parmesan to round out the party.  We arrived at the Pike Place Market on a mission to find this delicacy, and on the way, we saw the vendors  and booths, all set up to sell fresh seafood, flowers, produce and other items.  It had the charm of a permanent farmers market, set up by the water.  It was very cool.  We also took a few steps down from there to see the famed gum wall, which was quite disgusting.  We actually didn’t enter the alley space that was coated in chewed bubblegum, but we paused at the entrance to take a photo.  That was plenty, thanks,

We also stopped for a moment back up at the main level of the marketplace to watch the famous fish throwing, but unfortunately, there were too many people in the way for me to get good photos.  Maybe we return today.  

From there, we made our way to the ferry departure point, heading to Bainbridge Island.  It was a very efficient way to get to the island, and when we arrived, we found it charming and welcoming.  We checked out a local winery, walked to a cute bar and grill and shared a salmon burger unlike anything I have ever eaten before, then headed to their art museum for a quick stroll through a few exhibits before hopping the ferry back to Seattle proper.  From there, we started our city bus journey.

Using public transportation in a place you’re visiting gives you a different lay of the land.  When you ride a city bus, you see regular folks, just trying to get to and from work or school or wherever they’re headed.  These are the locals who use this mode of transport every day, and it gives you a different feel for the place.  It’s a juxtaposition- in one moment, you’re craning and standing on your tippy-toes to see a man throwing a fish for the benefit of tourists, and in your next act, you find yourself watching commuters, heads buried in their phones, just trying to get home.  And if you’re lucky enough to travel with Cas, you have someone on your side who is good at planning these things and somehow manages to be in the right place at just the right time.  

When our bus odyssey concluded, we were steps away from Ivar’s. Ivar apparently has many locations in the area, and we were at the one most geographically favorable to Jerone and Sara.  We got there a little early- mostly because that’s when the bus showed up- and we asked for a table for four.  We determined we’d wait at the bar until the rest of our party arrived, and when they did, we apparently miscalculated.  Jerone’s son Alex joined us for dinner.  He got tall when Cas and I weren’t paying attention.  Aside from Alex’s dramatic height change, Jerone and Sara looked exactly the same.  Time has been kind to them- or maybe it’s the Pacific Northwest.  

Again, because of course we did, Cas and I had seafood.  I got a seafood sauté with a little bit of everything in it while Cas had a salmon that was probably swimming near the restaurant that morning.  It was a great meal and a great time to catch up with my old colleagues from my high school teaching days.  They’re both still teaching, working at two different private schools in the area, and still pretty happy to work with kids.  I get it.  

Here’s how the crew looks now- Alex is the obviously super-tall one in the middle…

But that was our Tuesday and the see-food diet we enjoyed.  I think today we are planning a cuppa coffee at the original Starbucks in the morning, and we have our timed entry tickets for the space needle at sunset.  There’s also a few things we have planned in between, but more on that later.  Time to get out of this hotel room and see about some food.  

And once again, here are the photos: tinyurl.com/DunlapSeattle