Thursday, June 18, 2026
The tip of the iceberg
Wednesday, June 17, 2026
Don’t go chasin’ waterfalls
Tuesday, June 16, 2026
The Golden Circle- the tour begins
Great news. I found the keyboard tricks that do this: þ ð
This is about to become important. See, today, we went to þingvellir National Park. It’s apparently a UNESCO world heritage site, making itself a member of the long list of these sites we’ve managed to visit in our adventures. It was a spot where the Vikings used to have their parliamentary assemblies and marks the spot between the North American and Eurasian continental plates. Apparently, this is a spot that scuba divers love to visit so they can swim in the waters that flow along this fault line. Also, let me check with Cas- okay- it’s pronounced thing-fed-ler. Yeah. Obviously.
That was pretty spectacular. But from there, we headed to Geysir. Your American brain wants to say guy-zurr. Sure. But it’s their word, and they apparently pronounce it geezer. I like to think of it as an old geezer. They promise that the most active geyser erupts every ten minutes, In our experience today, it was more like four. And boy oh boy, does it ever shoot up into the sky. Just. Wow. It was really something to behold. We’ve had more breathtaking moments on this trip so far, and we’re nowhere near the halfway point.
That takes us to Gulfoss. Gul=Gold; Foss=Falls. I didn’t see any gold, but I was adequately stunned by the pretty waterfall. Also, the spray from the massive force of water hitting water produced plentiful rainbows. Maybe the pot of gold was just out of sight. We did a fair amount of marching about near and around Gulfoss. I had to stop and wipe my glasses, a problem compounded by the fact that my usual move (wiping them off with my shirt) was not useful, as my shirt was a little damp, too. Regardless. Þingvellir, Geysir and Gulfoss were winners.
And it was on to the tomato farm. Cas was trying not to look as un-enthused as he was on this one. It’s a whole farm where they have greenhouses that produce tomatoes. They love tomatoes. Oh, gosh, the tomatoes there are great. One thing, though, Cas is no fan of tomatoes. He likes salsa. Lots of love for marinara sauce. But hand him a nice, ripe tomato and he will politely decline. Today, he tried the tiniest of small bites and handed me the rest. That was a spectacular display of politeness for him. Seriously. Until it becomes salsa or something, he is super not interested. Regardless, we had a good time at the tomato farm, we learned a little more about Icelandic horses and their unique gaits, we ate some tomato soup (which apparently gets a pass form him since the tomatoes are all smushed) and we had another beautiful, uncharasteristally sunny day in Iceland. We keep hearing from every person in the tourism industry here how unusual this weather is. Maybe it is for folks who live here, but for us, it’s been gorgeous 100% of the time. Oops. I just got smug- I tempted fate. Tomorrow will probably be really crappy. It’s like saying no hitter in the middle of a baseball game. Yeah, that one’s on me, folks. Also, the forecast calls for rain, so there’s that.
Anyhow, we got to our very nice hotel in the Golden Circle and checked in. We stopped into our room and got ready for dinner. We had a glass of wine beforehand and then had dinner with our new group. There are nine people total, and Cas is one of two men- besides our tour guide, whose name I will attempt to write after I ask him again how to spell it. It sounds a bit like the word kiddy, but with a little of an rrr sound in the middle of the word. More on that later. In the meantime, there are what I can only imagine are geothermally fed hot tubs at this hotel. They’re outside, and the current temparetre in Farenheit is 53. So, if you’re Heather and Cas, what do you do?
I think you know that answer.
Good night from Hotel Grimsborgir!
Monday, June 15, 2026
Horseys
Our time in Reykjavík is drawing to a close. Today is our last full day here before the tour group assembles and we head to our next destination. Starting tomorrow, we’re traveling what everyone around here calls “the ring road” with a journey to a spot that everyone seems to know as the “Golden Circle.” From what I can glean of the Icelandic language, Foss is a suffix that means you’re talking about a waterfall. All the waterfalls are something-foss. This one is Gullfoss, the golden waterfall. In that we’re headed to the Golden Circle, Gold Falls seems like an appropriate name for the falls. More on that later when I get more information from whatever tour guide we meet.
For now, let’s recap the amazing day we just had in and around the capital city of Iceland. We began with a bit of a hustle out the door to meet our transport van that took us to the Icelandic Horse center. It’s horsey day today, and we were all ready to go out and ride these amazing animals.
Things I learned today: Icelandic horses are the most pure bred horses in the world because a some point in history, horses and livestock in the rest of Europe were swapping diseases back and forth, so Iceland decided to take advantage of being an island by forbidding other horses to come and go. As a result, these guys are very specific to the location. They’re smaller than what you’d think of with your American brain but they are great animals. Also, we were told that they are so friendly because of evolution. The ones who were rude or stand-offish to their fellow horses tended to go off on their own in the winter and suffer in isolation. The friendly ones kept each other warm and tended to make more horses. Friendliness wins the genetic lottery. Hooray for kindness!
We also rode across lava fields. Lava fields are interesting. Just a whole bunch of rocky looking space with mosses and some grass. The guide had a joke: If you ever find yourself lost in an Icelandic forest, you should stand up. See, the trees are pretty short around here. No worries, though- the horses are pretty short, too. Apparently, short horses have great personalities. As a 5’4” woman, I can see the value in shortness.
Icelandic horses have Icelandic names. My horse was a very calm soul named Blesi. It was pronounced Blessey. He was pretty chill. They have you stand and greet your horse- pet his head and chat him up a little before they help you hop on. I talked to Blesi the whole time we rode. Some conversational excerpts:
Me: Hey, buddy, why you pulling to the right? You see something cool over there? I don’t want to complain that my horse has bad alignment. Also, what this with following so close. Hit the brakes, kid. Heaven knows what may happen if the horse in front of you stops short!
Blesi: Hrrmmph!
Me: Yep. Makes sense. You sure are a kind and patient horse, kiddo.
Cas was privileged to ride a horse called Styrmir. Steer-mehr for those of you trying to pronounce along at home. His horse was a little more spazzy than mine. Styrmir was often seen dropping out of the column of horses and trying to parallel park his way back into line in his preferred spot. He was a bit of a pill, but Cas was very good at rolling with it. We rode to a spot in the middle of the lava fields, and all of the horses seemed to know that we were in the place where they could take a potty break. I now know the sound of a dozen horses peeing, but I will spare you the description.
Yes, the horses were awesome. Amazing. I need new adjectives.
And when we got back to the hotel, we were hungry. We decided to find some food that was probably best in the city we’re currently in. Our future travels will take us to small places where dinner at the hotel may be the only game in town, and I am sure those will be amazing meals, but I am guessing that this may be our last shot at fish and chips for a while. So that’s what we went out and found. There are really some excellent fish and chip options near our hotel, and we took full advantage. We took advantage, ate way too much and had a nap. Naps are awesome when you’re five hours off your regular time zone and confused by a sun that almost never sets.
After our nap, we had a little energy to burn, and Cas found a spot on his Google map called Bullseye. It is a bar where you can play darts. Whelp, my skill at darts hasn’t improved. It’s not that I am bad at darts, but I am certainly not good. Cas won the first game hands down, and the second game was mine for the taking, but this place has electronic timers on things, so my need to hit one 17 was backed up against his need for the whole dang bullseye. I think I would have had it. Alas, the time ran out, and we decided to just enjoy the good company. Also, he conceded, and I took the win. I’m not a fool, folks.
Anyhow, tomorrow, we learn what the Golden Circle looks like and head out to see the rest of this amazing island. That’s all I have for now. Have a lovely evening, and we’ll catch you on the other side of a waterfall!
Here’s Cas, Styrmir, me and Blessi.
Photos: tinyurl.com/DunlapIcelandSunday, June 14, 2026
Modes of transportation
Underground
So, the new part is only 4,000 years old. We made our way the the 50,000 year old part. Of course, I am talking about a volcano whose name is un-type able in an American keyboard format. I can try to copy and paste it, but it makes my fonts all wonky. So here it is:
Yep. Totally pronounceable to a native English speaker.
We made our way to a bus stop that took us to another bus that took us to the little house on the side of the mountain that led to the path that led to base camp. We walked three kilometers from the house to the base camp to then moved from there to the windiest part of the hike, the walk up to the top of the volcano. It was a pretty difficult hike on the way there, but it was significantly harder on the way back. Once you make your way from base camp to the tippy top of the mountain (and it’s not actually that tall, but boy howdy, is it ever windy), you use a harness to lock into a rope that runs along a metal foot bridge and takes you to a window washing elevator. First time for everything, I suppose.
That was our ride down into the lava chamber. If you have never been inside a lava chamber before- and most people haven’t, I suspect- it’s worth a look. You will be super tired and have sore legs at the end of the day, but you will not have regrets. It had that quality that I truly love in a tourist attraction: other-worldliness. One of our new companions from the window-washing elevator said it reminded her of an episode of Star Trek. I get it, but I did feel a good deal cooler than Captain Kirk trodding around in my hiking boots in that lava chamber. The colors were unreal. The stones were interesting. You could see where lava had been before it cooled into the rocks we were seeing. And on the way there, there were no trees anywhere in sight. In fact, there were no trees in the area we traveled into on the way. We had to get about 30 minutes into our ride back to Reykjavík before we saw a single tree.
I am usually pretty good at explaining things, but on this one, I am at a bit of a loss. How do you describe a stone chamber in a volcano that was hollowed out when lava spewed out 4,000 years ago? It was colorful, pretty, barren, strange, damp and strange again. That’s a heckuva list of adjectives, isn’t it?
When we got back to the hotel, we opted to sit still for a little bit. We went to the patio behind the lobby and just enjoyed a little more of what I am told is uncharacteristically nice Icelandic weather. We were really beat, but we also needed dinner at a certain point, which led us to go out walking. There’s a piece of good news. More walking. I topped out over 15,000 steps yesterday- just sayin’. Proximity to the hotel did figure into our restaurant choice, I can tell you that. We found a spot that said they were all booked up with reservations, but we could sit at a pair of seats that faced the street and eat looking out the window. That was actually what we were going to request, anyhow, so we took it. A couple glasses of wine, a few lamb shanks and a pastry-topped fish stew were our menu picks, and we were not disappointed with the food or with the people watching. It’s pretty neat to look out the window at a spot in downtown Reykjavík and watch the world go by. We tried to guess who was local, who was American, who was from different spots- it’s kind of a fun game with no way of knowing if your guesses are correct. There’s a ton of tourism in this city, though, so you know there’s a good chance you’re not looking at a native.
After dinner, we had a pretty easy time falling asleep. We’re just getting our things together now and heading out. Something about the way the tour was booked and our insistence on being early meant that the preferred hotel for our tour operator was booked up for the first few nights we’re here. So they put us up across the street. We’re just going to eat the complementary breakfast here then roll our bags across the street to our new spot. Oh, and we’re going to get into a helicopter in a bit, too, so there’s that. We booked what they are calling a geothermal tour, and in order to do it, you need to be above ground looking down. Interesting turnabout, as yesterday, we were below. Then this evening, we’re in for a bit of whale watching. We sincerely had to come a few days before the tour starts in earnest just to do all of these amazing add-on activities we couldn’t pass up.
But it’s time to get moving, now. Spent enough time under the surface, it’s a day for flying and sailing about. Here’s one for the Christmas card, though- what an adventure:
Saturday, June 13, 2026
Icelandic cuisine
Friday, June 12, 2026
Just like the movies
Wednesday, June 3, 2026
The floor is lava
Saturday, March 21, 2026
That’s all she wrote
Thursday, March 19, 2026
Last night in town
Grumpy Bean. That was the name of the coffee shop where we began our morning. Of course, it started at a coffee shop. We went from there to a very early lunch at Beecher’s Handmade Cheese. I learned before we left Dallas that they have a mac and cheese that you absolutely must try. Mission accomplished. I think I may have overdosed on Lactaid, but no worries- I got the mac. It was pretty great.
With our carbs all sorted out for the day, Cas and I headed to the Ballard locks. These are a pair of locks connecting Lake Union to Puget Sound, and their primary function appears to be to let boats pass through peacefully. The water levels in these two places are different, and the locks bring boats in to either lift or lower them to the correct level for where they are headed. It was interesting. I know it’s not the properly touristic thing to do, but watching a large mechanism raise or lower a whole boat is pretty interesting to me. Also to Cas. Heck- maybe we’re a little nerdy when doing tourist things, but we are that way together, so it’s okay. After that, we wandered down Ballard Avenue, which was nice as we have been staying in the downtown area, and seeing another neighborhood was pretty neat. We stepped into a wine shop and had a very strange glass of Lebanese wine before heading to a funky restaurant where Cas had a cup of salmon chowder and I had a BLT with the thickest bacon I have seen in a while. It was a neat spot, a cool neighborhood, and as we have come to expect in Seattle, a nice bunch of people.
After that, our city bus passes were good for a trip back to the main downtown area, where we took an underground tour. When it was founded, Seattle was built up of wood. There was a horrific fire, and the rebuild was strange. There’s a large potion of that rebuild that is currently underground, and more was built on top of that. Enough to be significant and interesting- and worthy of a unique tour. We learned about hotels, banks, hardware stores and sawmills. We learned about houses of ill repute and spaces that later housed bootleggers. We got an underground-tour-look at the city where we’ve been sleeping for several nights. It was a very cool tour.
And now, we need to hit the hay. It’s time to get to bed, because tomorrow morning will come very early, and we have to make our way back to Dallas. This has certainly been a strange spring break trip- it started late and ended at a time we didn’t necessarily anticipate, but it was another good one. Cas and Heather approved. I’ll check back in from the house in Dallas, but after that, you’ll have to hold your breath for the next bit of adventure this summer. If we haven’t told you where we’re going I will leave you in suspense. You’ll see in June- hoo boy- it’s gonna be a good one. Until then, here were are underground.
Coffee flavored coffee
Wednesday, March 18, 2026
I see food, I eat it
Tuesday, March 17, 2026
Top o’ the mornin’ to ya’
We made it! We got to the airport yesterday with boarding passes that showed no seat assignment. The flight was overbooked. They offered compensation to anyone who was willing to make a deal, and that earned Cas and me the aisle seats on the back two rows of the airplane to Salt Lake City. I was one row ahead of him. Of course, our original tickets featured us sitting next to each other straight through to Seattle, but at this point, we just opted to get here however we could. Good news, bad news- I got a lot of my new book read, but the guy behind me was pretty distracting.
When we got here, we stepped off the airplane and walked to the light rail station. The whole walk was under a roof, which makes sense given what I understand to be the typical weather around here. We bought transit passes and boarded the train without presenting them or swiping them in any way. Felt a lot like we got a free ride. In Dallas, there was a fare enforcement check on the Silver Line, but in Seattle, we just hopped on with the shiny, new cards in our pockets. Perhaps we’ll find use for them today.
It was a long day of travel yesterday, so we were in low power mode- at least, it was Heather and Cas low power mode. We only walked a few large blocks to get to a rooftop bar where we had a cocktail and a sandwich and saw as much of the sunset as the Pacific Northwest clouds would let us see. We sat high up, looking out over the water and to the mountains in the background on one side, the Pike Place Market on the other, and enjoyed the view. When you live in Dallas, you get really excited about places that have natural beauty. I guess we weren’t alone, because we ended up in the nicest chat with two women from Houston. Apparently, being from Houston leaves you just as hungry for natural beauty as being from Dallas does. But that’s the day- it was a long one. We got back to our room with aspirations for a much more interesting day today. No layovers, now separate seating- just bouncing around Seattle with my guy. Here’s a great pic of us at The Nest, which is a rooftop bar with nice cocktails and a good poached tuna sandwich!
It’s almost time to get started today. It’s St. Patrick’s Day, and in all of the stopping and starting, I somehow forgot to pack a single green thing to wear. Hope that doesn’t come back to haunt me . We have a ferry ride in the works and a trip to have some extremely authentic Starbucks coffee. Should be a good one, and this evening, we’ll have a nice dinner with Jerone and his wife Sara. Hooray! Off to go explore, and top o’ the morning to ya’!By the way- here is the photo album I am sure you were anticipating: tinyurl.com/DunlapSeattle
Monday, March 16, 2026
Lemons to lemonade
Saturday, March 14, 2026
Seattle by way of Paris
Sunday, March 8, 2026
Origin stories
Every super hero in the movies started somewhere. Bruce Wayne saw his parents killed as a child and dedicated his adult life to secretly fighting crime dressed in his Batman costume. Spiderman was bitten by a radioactive spider or something. There is always a beginning. There is always a reason why they are who they are. It's how the archetype works- they all have an origin story.
But every couple has one, as well. Some couples meet at work or at school. Some meet on dating platforms before they meet in person. Some meet in a living room, then at a bar, then at a restaurant, then finally figure it out. Our radioactive spider, so to speak, is a man named Jerone.
Say hi to Jerone.



















