Big Nasty

So, it turns out when you’re a fifth-generation fisherman and shrimper in Louisiana there’s a fair chance you’ve nicknamed an alligator or two.  Ronnie was our guide today on an airboat trip around the swamp, and he had a particular 12-foot-long gator all picked out to show us.  He called that one “Big Nasty.”  There were others, including “Little Nasty,” but I digress.  

Where to begin- okay- today, we got on a shuttle just after 10:30 that took us to a swampy area.  Once there, we all donned plastic rain ponchos and took a seat on an airboat.  Our guide was Captain Ronny, and he sounded like he should be an airboat operator.  He said his family had been living in the area and working in the fishing and shrimping business for five generations.  We raced through the water on Ronny’s airboat to a spot where he knew we could see some alligators.  Then, he cruised to another stop, then another- until we had seen a whole lot of gators.  Ronny said Alligators respond to vibrations in the water, so when he tapped a long stick against the surface of the water, the gators came.  He would use marshmallows to entice the prehistoric animals toward his position by either floating them in the water or popping one on the end of a stick like he was about to roast it on a campfire.  It was raining the whole time we were on the boat, and for that, we were all glad for the ponchos.  They did a reasonably good job, but we’re all still drying out from the adventure.  

The whole thing was amazing.  The rain, the gators, the fifth-generation fisherman- everything balled up together to make this one of the strangest experiences I think any of us have had on a vacation.  I don’t really know what else to say, but it was so flippin’ cool.  Tick another item of my to-do list. That was certainly unique.  

Oh, and in case you’re keeping track, today was the day that Cas and I finally broke out the magic ponchos.  These are the rain ponchos we have taken on every trip we’ve gone on.  In fact, I took them on my 40th birthday trip with my dad the summer Cas and I first started dating.  Those ponchos are older than my marriage.  And they’ve been around the world.  I kind of wanted some sort of ceremony when we finally used them today, and as it turns out, they got a baptism by swamp water and rain.  I guess that did the trick.  

Anyhow, when everyone is dry, we will reassemble and head to our next destination- I think what’s on deck is a visit to the Sazerac house, where we’ll get a tour and a bit of a tasting.  Nothing to top off an airboat trip through a gator-filled swamp like a little booze.  

In the meantime, here we are with the ponchos, Ronny in the background and a little bit of rain. 

Photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

Saturday’s Shenanigans, part deux

Where did we leave off- Ah, Pat O’Brien’s- I called ahead to Pat O’Brien’s, just to check on the under-21 rules.  We had to walk in the Bourbon Street entrance to enter on the restaurant side.  We just came for the hurricane, so when the waiter explained the food rules, we ordered some appetizers- mostly to be in line with their rulebook, but also, because we had to eat a little bit of alligator.  I’m sure that’s some kind of New Orleans tourist cliche, but we tend to steer into the skid for stuff like that.  Hurricanes and bits of fried Gator, please!  It was a great time- and because of the rather over-the-top sash and “70” balloons Jane managed to materialize from her purse and inflate on the spot, strangers walking back to their table from the ladies’ room stopped to sing Happy Birthday to Dad.  It was pretty great.  

With a lot of rum and a little bit of gator tail in our stomachs, we made our way to Felix’s- another place somebody recommended.  We have a pretty long list of recommendations, actually, and I doubt we’ll ever run out of good food options in this city.  

From there, we went over to Frenchmen Street, an up-and-coming neighborhood where live music is the order of the day.  With a bit of wandering and a detour to play in a park, we got to a place where the music was good and we could sit in a courtyard.  This let us chat without yelling while we could still hear the band.  A good volume level, I’d say.  From there, we walked over to the river to have a look- it’s really pretty after dark.  

With that, we made our way to a restaurant for a muffuletta sandwich.  This is another item that is best when shared.  Often, a muffuletta sandwich is as big as a dinner plate.  The ones we managed to find were small- only two people were necessary to share each one, not four.  Still, wow.  What a great sandwich!  

That’s about it- I think that brings us back to now.  We got back to the hotel and our heads almost immediately hit the pillows.  I know today, we have an airboat tour booked, and after that, we have tickets to the Sazerac museum.  Beyond that, everything is negotiable.  

Oh, and because there’s always a photo- here’s Dad and Jane outside of Felix’s, waiting for a table.  It’s so darn cool that she came along on this trip!  

Photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

Mission accomplished

This morning, Cas and I got out of bed, cleaned ourselves up and met up with Dad, Jane and Danny at our hotel.  Jeff, Reema and Jack had their breakfast closer to the place they were staying, and we had breakfast at Pere Antoine Restaurant.  We split three omelets between five people, and it worked out perfectly.  We were paying the check when Jeff  walked into the restaurant with Jack and Reema.  

In the time it took for us to get from the hotel to breakfast, we walked past several cool things- a courthouse of epic proportions, a few really neat courtyards, and about a million people whose fashion choices were questionable.  Dad and Dan stopped at a hat shop run by a company called Goorin Brothers, to which they are both very loyal customers.  There was a very spectacular half-price deal on dad’s absolute favorite hat.  We had actually searched for that exact hat online, only to arrive at the conclusion that it had been discontinued.  We’re pretty sure he may have found the last one of that particular hat in his size.  He had to have it.  Danny picked up a pair of hats, as well, leading us to the next place on the path, and the next- all of which put us just a little too late to get to the carousel bar in time to score a seat on the fancy, revolving bar stools.  No matter.  Apparently, Jack would not have been welcome to sit at the bar, anyhow.  Oh, to be 19... 

Nevertheless, Dad’s whole mission was to come to New Orleans and have a Hurricane at Pat O’Brien’s.  Mission accomplished.  I am currently a little too tired to tell the tale of the rest of today, so here’s a photo from this afternoon, and a promise for more later.  I will write about the rest of today in the morning, when my eyes are more likely to stay open.  

Here’s dad, wearing some beads and a sash Jane bought him.  He’s either a very good sport or a very kind sibling.  Jury’s still out: 

Photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

Almost famous

A moment for a personal aside: 

When Cas and I go out to restaurants, he sometimes gets spotted. We’ll just be eating a hamburger or ordering a drink, and we’ll hear, “Mr. Dunlap?”  It actually happens to him more often than it happens to me. I’ve always found this strange, because in sheer numbers, I’ve taught way more kids than he has. Add 19 years of teaching up with anywhere from 120-200 kids a year, and people are bound to remember you now and then, but he gets spotted more frequently.  I can only assume his former students like the same restaurants as we do, and my former students eat elsewhere.  Usually, though, there is a certain amount of anonymity in travel- enough that you can do a Segway tour or ride one of those electric razor scooters, looking like a first-rate idiot, and you can be sure nobody you know will see.  

Whelp, I guess those days are over. I got spotted in New Orleans last night. I was wearing a fabric face mask and sitting on a streetcar, and a former student knew me. I’m basically famous, now. The child (my gosh, she’s an adult, actually!) had graduated from the school where I was teaching in 2013.  That’s what made the whole thing even more impressive.  Certainly, she’s been had plenty of time to forget my face in the intervening eight years, but somehow, she knew it was me with only half of my face visible!  I suspect she’s 26.  I was grateful that she introduced herself, and after that I knew just who she was, what clubs she was in, etc. I don’t think I ever actually taught her in a classroom, but a high school is a community, and you end up knowing a lot of people.  

As we were hopping off of the streetcar last night, she said goodbye, and even wished my dad a a happy birthday.  What a nice kid!  (I mean, what a nice 26 year old...) 

Just a strange moment from our travels.  I’d  better be on good behavior from here on in- or change my hairstyle- who knows how many other former students are lurking around this city. 

Photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

22,524 steps

I guess the answer to the question, “Why do I keep yawning?” is that, just now, Cas’ Fitbit read that he had walked 22,524 steps.  What we decided to do after our nap was wander around a while until we were reasonably certain Dad’s sister Jane would be close to the hotel.  We actually went to a nice, little bar that, much to Dad’s delight, had the same tasty Milk Porter he had enjoyed at the Purple Drank place.  We also walked to a hotel where a friend of his recommended we get a drink, but the place was so packed that we couldn’t begin to find a seat.  We will go back another day, though, because the bar is a carousel from an amusement park with rotating barstools and everything.  Maybe tomorrow.  

After we stuck around there for a moment, we went back to the hotel to greet my Aunt Jane.  When she checked in, we all got on the streetcar and headed through the garden district to a place Cas remembers from his brother Chad’s days at Tulane.  We walked into Cooter Brown’s and ordered some rum punch drinks along with a few appetizers that none of us should probably eat, but all of us enjoyed.  That was when Jeff, Reema and Jack arrived. Actually, just Jeff walked into the bar- apparently, Jack isn’t quite old enough to walk in the door.  Live and learn- I forgot there were places that would exclude one person from a party of eight because he’s 19...  Even if his dad and grandfather walk in with him...  

So, we went to a restaurant that Cas referred to as a greasy spoon.  I found it to be a really nice diner, and in no way greasy.  It certainly had character, I will say that.  It was called The Camellia Grill.  

Jane was so happy with her grilled cheese and tomato soup that the waiter was visibly taken aback with her response.  Apparently, it was some spectacular soup/sandwich combo.  After that, we attempted to locate some daiquiris, but we appeared to be in a part of town with a lot of rules about younger folks and their presence in bars.  Could have something to do with the proximity to many major universities.  

After that was a bust, we let Jeff and Reema head back to their Air bnb- they were a little wiped out.  I guess they didn’t get an afternoon nap like the rest of us did.  Cas, Jane, Dad, Dan and I headed back to our hotel via the streetcar, stopping early in the French Quarter.  Jane had never been to New Orleans before today, and certainly, the best way to see Bourbon Street for the first time is after dark on a Friday night.  It was pretty amazing.  From there, we walked over to Jackson Square to get an after-dark view of it, heading back to the hotel on a decidedly scenic path.  

By the time we got back to our hotel, we were wiped out for the second time today.  All in all, it was an excellent day, and I am really happy we’re celebrating Dad’s 70th birthday this way.  I’m calling it a win so far, but we’re only 22,524 steps into this journey.  

Photo album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

Purple Drank

Wow, 6 am is an early time to fly anywhere.  Our best deal for the flight, though, was exactly then.  That means we all had to be in one place at 4:30 to get to the airport by 5.  Breakfast would have to have occurred at 3:30 or 4, so we arrived in New Orleans hungry.  After a cab ride to the hotel, we checked in (seven hours early!  Well done, Hampton Inn!) and located a seafood omelet.  Wow.  Fueled with that, we walked to the French Quarter, then to the riverfront, then back to the French Quarter... Cas’ Fitbit registered 10,000 steps before noon.  After a stop at a bar on Bourbon Street, we all headed the long way back to the hotel.  A nap is in order, as the rest of our party is arriving this afternoon and this evening, and it would be a shame if we were all tired out when they arrive.  

I need to write this down, though, mostly so I don’t forget it- Dad and Danny had a beer from a brewery called Gnarly Barley.  The beer was something like a milk porter- Can’t remember, but if we ever see it again, I need to buy it and bring it to my dad.  It was good- I had a sip, but Cas and I had to have the ominous looking “Purple Drank.”  I mean, it had a handwritten sign on the side of the machine that spat out the purple stuff, and there was no explanation offered to what was in there.  A mysterious, unexplained purple beverage?  Don’t mind if I do!  

Anyhow, enough for now- the idea of a nap is too ingrained in my mind, now, and I need to have one.  

I’ll write more later, and certainly, Cas will make up a photo album.  I mean, it’s his job when we travel, right?  

Until then, sweet dreams! 

UPDATE: Cas made a photo album.  Here you go: https://photos.app.goo.gl/chay3CBSmG5aSwXr6

Longtime listener, first time caller

When Cas and I go on trips, our families read this blog.  On Friday, for the first time since we began writing about our travels, some of our usual readers will be appearing here.  

While I typically don't blog about family trips, this is a special occasion.  My dad went and turned 70 a few days ago, and to celebrate, a whole bunch of us are headed to New Orleans.  I am actually taking a few days off of work for the trip, which is something I never do.  Cas, fortunately, is all done for the year.  It's shocking how badly a global pandemic can throw off your schedule.  Nevertheless, once the idea came, we had to do it.  Dad, Dan, Cas and I have tickets to head out on a Southwest flight.  Jeff, Reema and Jack are coming along for a part of the time, road-tripping from home, and as a really neat bonus, dad's youngest sibling, my Aunt Jane is coming all the way from Minneapolis.  

I am, as always, grateful for my main travel partner.  He has way more detailed knowledge of New Orleans than the rest of us combined- his brother went to college there.  I get it- when your brother lives somewhere else, you go visit.  When the Army put Jeff in Hawaii or Italy, I visited!  To be fair, I also came when they put him in Kansas and Georgia.  The point is, you visit...  And in doing that, he learned a lot of New Orleans geography, making him our de facto tour guide.  

So, we head out early on Friday morning, and after that I will certainly keep you posted!  

Laissez le bon temps rouler!